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Welcome to Beauty VoF » Interlining or interfacing, fusible interlining, horsehair cloth and bridal laminate

Interlining or interfacing, fusible interlining, horsehair cloth and bridal laminate

Estimated reading time: 9 minutes

What is Interfacing?

Interfacing or interlining is all cloth that is used inside a garment to reinforce the outer fabric. Think of fusible interfacing, horsehair cloth and bridal laminate. Fusible interfacing can be from the Vilene / Vlieseline brand. These have a glue coating which melts when heated with the iron. Vilenes are woven or non woven. All other (non vilene) interlinings in our assortment are woven. Vilene is a brand name. So Vilene is interlining but not all interlinings are Vilene… Fusible interlining of coat interfacing is used in jackets for men or women, blazers and coats / overcoats. If you compare them to the more common fusible interlinings they are mostly sturdier. Horsehair is an interlining that you sew into a garment by hand, in Dutch it is called “pikeren”, in English pad stitching. An old-fashioned technique with beautiful results. And not every horsehair cloth has horse hair in the raw material, they are also available with wool or goat hair… Bridal laminate, on the other hand, is not found in blazers, but in bridal wear or cocktail wear. Imagine a dress with a bodice that is sturdy and keeps it’s shape. Often they are made with boning just like a corset.

Horsehair cloth interlining

The interfacings in the horsehaircloth category are the horsehair and woolhair types. All hair cloth interlinings are made of composite raw materials, but they all contain hair, from horses, goats or sheep, usually in combination with cotton and viscose and a few percent synthetic material. For ladies, the more supple types such as wool hair and the thin horsehair cloth interlining are more suitable. The heavier horsehair is a real men’s horsehair. Although for men nowadays many more flexible types are also used depending on the cut and the fabric.
Horsehair cloth interlining, also woollen haircloth and fusible horsehair cloth
All haircloth interlinings are suitable for the inside of mens jackets, womens jackets, coats, etc. Mostly they are sewn into the garment. Do not forget to order your fitting tape when buying horsehair cloth

Would you like to buy a woollen interlining? We have it for you!

Bridal laminate interfacing

After the interlining horsehair category we now get the bridal laminate, after these we will discuss the fusible interfacings next. With Bridal laminate, tops for bridal and cocktail dresses are lined for durability and shape. Usually you sew the bridal laminate between the fabric and the lining of the dress. So you don’t wear it directly on the skin. Depending on the shape of the garment, boning is also applied. We sell these in sew-on and inserted boning. When you are making a corset or wedding dress, we recommend the spiral boning. Cut them to size with strong side pliers and attach the whalebone caps.
Tussenvoering Bruidslaminaat voor een stevige top in bruidsjurken en cocktailkleding
We offer bridal laminate in both fusible (iron-on) and sew-in options.
Looking for bridal laminate? Buy it now in our shop, available both by the meter and by the roll. These laminates are also used for making neckties.
And because they are made of viscose, you can also use them as an alternative to horsehair canvas for people who are sensitive or allergic to hair or wool.

Fusible Woven Interlining

Plakdoek is woven interlining for coats, blazers, jackets etc.
Fusible coat canvas is woven interlining for coats, blazers and jackets

This interfacing is used to fuse all kinds of garments. There are heavier types, an interfacing for a blazer, coat or beautiful winter jacket for example, and lighter types that are used more in blouses and dresses.

The names polyquick or coat canvas sometimes come up when you ask for this kind of interlining. Coat canvas is a fusible woven interfacing, comparable to our supple fusible viscose interlining, and is also called polyknit. We also sell polyquick, but here it is called Natural fusible woven interlining polyquick beige. It is also available in black and is made of viscose and cotton.

Shirt collar

For shirt collars we have a special firm interlining called: extra firm fusible cotton. If you are making a blouse and need something softer but still firm enough, the regular fusible cotton (G700) is the right choice. Of course, there are also several types of Vlieseline that are suitable; you can find those under the Vlieseline heading.
If you are looking for interlining for bags, plakdoek works perfectly well, for example the extra firm fusible cotton or one of the other firmer types…

The odd one out

Interfacing: fusible woven coat canvas, horsehair canvas and bridal laminate, this one doesn’t fall under any of those. Collar felt doesn’t really fit in any category. It isn’t really an interlining, because it is used for the under collar…

It is a truly old-fashioned tailor’s product…

Watteline interlining, the stretchy knitted volume interlining

Watteline, the stretchy knitted volume interlining

Back in our range: watteline…
Because watteline is a knitted product, it has give or stretch. It also has volume. It is suitable for stretch fabrics as a warm interlayer or as sleeve head lining or sleeve head padding.
The softness of watteline makes it an all-round interlining when you need stretch, volume or warmth in your design.

Instructions for fusible woven interfacing, horsehair canvas and bridal laminate interlining

Because there are so many different types of Vlieseline and interlining, it is easy to lose the overview, so we have made a PDF as a guide to choosing the right type.
Not completely convinced yet? No worries! Order swatches of the types you think you can use and try them out.

Still can’t decide, or just want to check whether you have chosen the right type?
Then contact Annette by email: annettebeautyvof@gmail.com or message/call: +31 (0)6-30746623

Processing information for the interlinings

Want to know exactly what the types are made of, how to treat them, etc.?

In our shop, all types of Vlieseline and interlining (fisible coat interfacing, horsehair canvas and bridal laminate) have an info sheet in the attachments tab of the product.
Also consider combining different types in one design…

Prefer swatches? Those are also in the shop: order swatches and test them on your fabric.

Iron, pressing iron or steam iron?

When fusing Vlieseline and interlining, it is important to take your time. Check the info sheet for how the type should be fused and stick to that time; rushing gives a poor result.

So fusing Vlieseline takes a while. If you tend to rush, try alternating. For example: cut 1 front panel from your Vlieseline and fuse it. While the freshly fused panel cools calmly on the ironing board, cut the facing from Vlieseline, and so on. You will find that you work more calmly this way…

Soleplates of irons

Fusing Vlieseline with a steam iron is not a good idea: because of the many holes in the soleplate, the Vlieseline does not stick everywhere and some patches remain unfused.
The solution is to buy a pressing iron or a fusing press. A pressing iron does have steam holes, but only near the tip. In general, a pressing iron is heavier than a steam iron, which actually helps when fusing Vlieseline. With a fusing press you fuse a whole panel in one go.

Iron without holes

They are hardly sold anymore, but a plain, simple iron without steam holes (the cheapest version there is) is perfectly fine for fusing Vlieseline. You do have to lean on the iron a bit more yourself to get the right pressure. Vlieseline is also easier to iron on than other interlining, because Vlieseline is made for consumers, who usually don’t have a heavy-duty pressing setup at home.