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Welcome to Beauty VoF » Shoulderpad suit jacket and coat

Shoulderpad suit jacket and coat

Use shoulderpads and sleeve fillings in suit jackets and (over) coats 

Shoulderpads for suit jackets or coats. Sleeve fillings for the sleeve head. Which type of shoulderpad is suitable for what purpose? In suit jackets and overcoats you use the felt shoulderpads in combination with sleeve fullings. When you add lining in the garment you mask the shoulderpad. Looking for a shoulderpad for a blouse or dress? Choose a fiberfill or foam shoulderpad with a jersey cover.
Colbert schoudervulling vilt in een blazer
Imagine you are sewing a suit jacket for a man or a woman. You choose a beautifull woollen fabric with a horsehair cloth or woollen cloth as interlining. Horsehair tape and then the shoulderpad… If you go for a fiberfill shoulderpad the pad will be visible through the fabric. The edges of these pads are mostly thicker than with the felt shoulderpads. That’s one reason to pick the felt pads for jackets. Go for felt for a professional result.

How a felt shoulderpad for a suit jacket is constructed

When you look at a felt blazer shoulderpad you will see a top layer, an underlayer and the filling in between. The top and bottom layers are made of felt. The layer in between differs in material, sometimes felt, sometimes fiberfill or volume fleece. All these layers are stitched together with large stitches The top layer is always the biggest and has a shoulderpoint at the armhole and the neck side. Between those two points the shoulderseam will be. The underlayer is smaller and fits inside the edges of the toplayer. So the edge of the overcoat shoulderpad is one layer thick. the layer in between differs in material and thickness. Felt or fiberfill work equally well for shoulderpads. Fiberfill filling is mostly made in the shape of the pad and felt is layered like an onion.
Schoudervulling mantel van vilt bestaat uit meerdere lagen

The layers of the shoulderpad for suit jacket or (over) coat

In the square you can clearly see the top and bottomlayer and the filling in between. Just next to the square you can see the botton layer is a little smaller…

Inserting a felt shoulderpad

Fold the shoulderpad in half over the shoulderpoints on the top layer. You can see the difference in length. The longest side is the front side. Often shoulderpads are sewn in the wrong way around. It is actually very easy to explain why the front is the longest side. Imagen your shoulder. On your back the shoulder is round. At the front you have a small dent, it goes in a bit. And the dent needs filling, that’s why the long side should be at the front of the garment. When sewing it in start with the shoulderpoint of the armhole of the pad and the jacket. That’s the starting point, those should line up. You then pin further to the front and to the back. The shoulderpoint at the neck will be right on the shoulderseam of the jacket and sew it on there by hand. The part you pinned will also need stitching onto the seam. With the lining is goes exactly the same but on the underlayer of the shoulderpad. Did you move your shoulderseam forward you should sew in the shoulderpad on the old shoulderpoint otherwise your pad will be too far in the front of the jacket.

Make your own Jacket shoulderpad 

Want to make your own? Yes, it is possible to do just that! When you need extra large shoulderpads for example…

What will you need?

  • Felt or something simmilar for the top and bottom layerVilt of iets dergelijks voor de boven en onder laag
  • Volume fleece for the layer in between
  • Needle and thread
The easiest way is to use an existing shouderpad as a base. You can also use your pattern. Decide how thick it will need to be and here we go. First we cut the top and bottom layers and after that the filling. Depending on the type of filling the methode is a little different. If you have choosen fiberfill you can thin the edges by pulling a little off. When using felt it is a bit harder, you can cut multiple layers and make them smaller and smaller to create the correct shape. Sew the layers of felt together before attaching the top and bottom layer, that way you have more control over the layers. Finally you sew all the layers together with large stitches. Leave about a centimeter to one and a half centimeter loose at the armhole, that is the seam where you can sew in into the garment. And if you are smart you also cut two small triangles on the shoulderpoints of the top and bottom layer when cutting them out.

Materials suitable for making shoulderpads are

  • Thermolam vilene, this white polyester volumefleece looks like felt
  • Soyamix volumefleece by vilene, looks like felt but much softer
  • Style vil vilene, it resembles foam and can be used for a sturdy shoulderpad
  • Watteline, a stretch knitted volume interlining, very soft and hairy
  • polyester volumefleece by vilene (order one without adhesive)

Inserting the sleeve head filling

Putting in a sleeve head filling is very simmilar to a shoulderpad. It also has a little cut where the shoulderpoint is and the only difference is that you sew it into the sleeve head and not in the shoulder of the jacket.  Start at the shoulderpoint and work to the front and the back from there …


Time needed: 6 minutes

Shoulderpad for a blazer jacket or (over) coat

  1. Construction of a felt shoulderpad

    The different layers and how they are put togetherSchoudervulling van vilt bestaat uit meerdere lagen

  2. Inserting a felt shoulderpad

    There are marks in the shoulderpads for easy positioning. We describe the process

  3. Making your own Shoulderpads

    The suitable types of interlining for making your own shoulderpads


How to sew in a shoulderpad in a jacket?

In a jacket you use a felt shoulderpad and it is sewn in by hand in the armhole and on the shoulderpoint in the neckline Colbert schoudervulling vilt in een blazer

Why use shoulderpad?

A shoulderpad fills the shoulder of your garment. If the shoulder of the garment is sagging and it should be higher you fill the void with a shoulderpad. When your body is not balanced for example if your hips are broader than your shoulders you can restore balance with a shoulderpad.

Which shoulderpad?

In blouses and dresses fiberfill or foam shoulderpads are used. In jackets the felt shoulderpads are better. Why? The felt pads give a better result in jackets, the edges are thinner and therefore they will not show on the outside of the garment. Also jackets are more tailored than blouses that are loose.

Can you remove shoulderpads?

Yes, you can. Test the result by removing one of the pads and put the garment on. Check your mirror. Is the result without the pad better than with the pad? If it’s a yes remove the other pad as well, if it’s a no sew the pad back in.. Tip: Look at the pad that you have not removed how it should be inserted!

Where can I buy shoulderpads?

In our online webshop you buy your felt shoulderpads and sleeve head filling for jackets and coats. We also sell fiberfill or foam pads for blouses and dresses. Also raglan or round pads for raglan sleeves.

What is a sleeve head filling?

Where your shoulderpad is on the shoulder the sleeve head filling is in the head of the sleeve. It fills is and gives it a rounded look. It also prevents dents in the sleeve head.