Use shoulderpads and sleeve fillings in suit jackets and (over) coats
How a felt shoulderpad for a suit jacket is constructedWhen you look at a felt blazer shoulderpad you will see a top layer, an underlayer and the filling in between. The top and bottom layers are made of felt. The layer in between differs in material, sometimes felt, sometimes fiberfill or volume fleece. All these layers are stitched together with large stitches The top layer is always the biggest and has a shoulderpoint at the armhole and the neck side. Between those two points the shoulderseam will be. The underlayer is smaller and fits inside the edges of the toplayer. So the edge of the overcoat shoulderpad is one layer thick. the layer in between differs in material and thickness. Felt or fiberfill work equally well for shoulderpads. Fiberfill filling is mostly made in the shape of the pad and felt is layered like an onion.
The layers of the shoulderpad for suit jacket or (over) coatIn the square you can clearly see the top and bottomlayer and the filling in between. Just next to the square you can see the botton layer is a little smaller…
Inserting a felt shoulderpadFold the shoulderpad in half over the shoulderpoints on the top layer. You can see the difference in length. The longest side is the front side. Often shoulderpads are sewn in the wrong way around. It is actually very easy to explain why the front is the longest side. Imagen your shoulder. On your back the shoulder is round. At the front you have a small dent, it goes in a bit. And the dent needs filling, that’s why the long side should be at the front of the garment. When sewing it in start with the shoulderpoint of the armhole of the pad and the jacket. That’s the starting point, those should line up. You then pin further to the front and to the back. The shoulderpoint at the neck will be right on the shoulderseam of the jacket and sew it on there by hand. The part you pinned will also need stitching onto the seam. With the lining is goes exactly the same but on the underlayer of the shoulderpad. Did you move your shoulderseam forward you should sew in the shoulderpad on the old shoulderpoint otherwise your pad will be too far in the front of the jacket.
Make your own Jacket shoulderpadWant to make your own? Yes, it is possible to do just that! When you need extra large shoulderpads for example…
What will you need?
- Felt or something simmilar for the top and bottom layerVilt of iets dergelijks voor de boven en onder laag
- Volume fleece for the layer in between
- Needle and thread
Materials suitable for making shoulderpads are
- Thermolam vilene, this white polyester volumefleece looks like felt
- Soyamix volumefleece by vilene, looks like felt but much softer
- Style vil vilene, it resembles foam and can be used for a sturdy shoulderpad
- Watteline, a stretch knitted volume interlining, very soft and hairy
- polyester volumefleece by vilene (order one without adhesive)
Inserting the sleeve head fillingPutting in a sleeve head filling is very simmilar to a shoulderpad. It also has a little cut where the shoulderpoint is and the only difference is that you sew it into the sleeve head and not in the shoulder of the jacket. Start at the shoulderpoint and work to the front and the back from there …
Time needed: 6 minutes
Shoulderpad for a blazer jacket or (over) coat
- Construction of a felt shoulderpad
The different layers and how they are put together
- Inserting a felt shoulderpad
There are marks in the shoulderpads for easy positioning. We describe the process
- Making your own Shoulderpads
The suitable types of interlining for making your own shoulderpads
In a jacket you use a felt shoulderpad and it is sewn in by hand in the armhole and on the shoulderpoint in the neckline
A shoulderpad fills the shoulder of your garment. If the shoulder of the garment is sagging and it should be higher you fill the void with a shoulderpad. When your body is not balanced for example if your hips are broader than your shoulders you can restore balance with a shoulderpad.
In blouses and dresses fiberfill or foam shoulderpads are used. In jackets the felt shoulderpads are better. Why? The felt pads give a better result in jackets, the edges are thinner and therefore they will not show on the outside of the garment. Also jackets are more tailored than blouses that are loose.
Yes, you can. Test the result by removing one of the pads and put the garment on. Check your mirror. Is the result without the pad better than with the pad? If it’s a yes remove the other pad as well, if it’s a no sew the pad back in.. Tip: Look at the pad that you have not removed how it should be inserted!
In our online webshop BeautyVoF.nl you buy your felt shoulderpads and sleeve head filling for jackets and coats. We also sell fiberfill or foam pads for blouses and dresses. Also raglan or round pads for raglan sleeves.
Where your shoulderpad is on the shoulder the sleeve head filling is in the head of the sleeve. It fills is and gives it a rounded look. It also prevents dents in the sleeve head.