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Identifying sewing machine needles

Estimated reading time: 10 minutes

Sewing machine needles by Schmetz

Sewing machine needles by Schmetz are of excellent quality, that is why we have them in stock! To recognize Schmetz sewing machine needles, it is important to know which type sewing machine needle you need. Not only are there Universal sewing machine needles, but also needles for stretch fabrics, firm fabrics and even ones for sewing leather. Every type sewing machine needle has it’s own attributes what makes them suitable for specific purposes. The difference is in the shape and finish of the tip, the shank, the eye and the groove in the needle. An example of special needles are Topstitching needles. These have an extra large eye to make them suited for topstitching with thicker thread. It is important to choose the correct needle to fit your fabric and thread, because it ensures the best result. The proverb says for good reason:
Good tools are half the job
Below we explain how to identify sewing machine needles, the different types available and their purpose.

How do I identify my sewing machine needle

that is a good question! Luckily the Schmetz manufacturer has considered this. They’ve developed a system with color codes. Even if the needle is out of it’s original package, you wil still be able to confirm what type and size of needle it is.

Identify your needle with the Schmetz color chart

There are two indicator bars with different colors per needle. One for the size and the other for the type of needle. Because Schmetz needles originate in Germany, we have created the Dutch translation ourselves. They do have English text, that is why we placed it on the right.
As you can see the types of needles received a unique color. The needle on the picture has a yellow band with a blue band below. The top band is the type indicator, that means it is a stretch neelde. The band below tells you the size of the needle. Because it is blue it tells you the needle size is 90/14. A few types of sewing machine needles don’t have a type band, only one for size:
    • Universal needles
    • Hemstitch needles
    • Double eye needles
    • Open eye needles

Identifying sewing machine needle sizes

On the picture above you see a column with color codes for needle size. A double designation is stated, a NM and a Size designation. The NM designation is based on the metric system. (the system we use in the Netherlands) NM designation is 100 times the thickness of the blade of the needle. What means a needle size NM 90 has a blade with a thickness of 0,9mm. If the needle is size NM 100 than the blade thickness is 1mm, etcetera. The size designation (imperial system) is mostly used in English speaking and Asian countries. For both designations goes: THE HIGHER THE NUMBER THE THICKER THE NEEDLE

The anatomy of sewing machine needles

Anatomy of sewing machine needles explained
The top part of the needle is the shank. This is the part that is inserted in the sewing machine. Schmetz needles have a flat side that insures correct insertion. The butt is rounded to make inserting the needle easier. Still need a aid when inserting a needle in the machine, please check out the category Sewing tools – At the sewing machine in our shop or click the button below The color code tells you which type of needle it is and the size of the needle The long groove protects the thread a makes sure it does not damage it when it goes through the fabric The scarf gives the sewing machine more room to finish stitches correctly The thread is threaded through the eye of the needle. For more information about different eyes see the paragraph Overview sewing machine needle tips below The shape of the tip differs per needle type. This way every type of needle is specifically made to suit special kinds of fabric

Overview sewing machine needle tips

An overview of different available needle tips

Which sewing machine needle do I use for different fabrics

To answer this particular question we have brought the Needle Choosing Aid into being! There are various types of sewing machine needles that state for what kinds of fabric they should be used, just by their name. A good example of this is the Jeans needle. Obviously it is used to sew denim or jeans fabric and that is totally true. Also used to sew other firm fabric. To make the Needle Choosing Aid easier to use we have created a Fabrics in Categories sheet, because it is not always clear in what category every fabric belongs. So first check the Fabrics in Categories sheet and see where in belongs before you look at the Needle Choosing Aid. Identify the right needle to use and order directly in our shop!

Which needle do I have inserted in my sewing machine

To find that out you can check the needle color codes. You can make a needle booklet to save your needles in an orderly manner. Or make a Needle Saver, clcik the button below to go to the blog about the needle saver (dutch) Why is that important you ask? When you place used needles back in the original packaging most of the time you are unsure which needles are REALLY NEW or you may have used before. If you have any trouble with your sewing machine because of skipping stitches for example. it is impossible to be sure if it is the needle or not. Because you can’t be absolutely sure your needle is unused… When you are sewing and the needle should break, and you find out you don’t have a replacement needle in stock. Place a pin in the spot where the broken needle was. If you place another type of needle in your machine you will know which needle is in the sewing machine. You also know what type of needle you should buy again.

The Schmetz Parking meter

I love this one! Easy to make and looks great. The manufacturer Schmetz GmbH has developed the parking meter, but sadly not a dutch version. That is why I have made it myself. This is the original German one, looks good doesn’t it?
The Dutch Schmetz Parking meter is shown below (in pdf format) It downloadable and printable (including manual, in four easy steps)

Supplies needed:

    • print out of the second page of the pdf, 100% size
    • splitpen
    • hobby knife
    • ruler

Organizing sewing machine needles, it makes them easier to identify

The above mentioned possibilities are meant to easily identify the needle that’s in the machine, but that is not a solution for all those loose packages of sewing machine needles. I have thrown them in a box for years and never really liked that solution! Every time a needed a new needle, I had to sift through the whole box to find the right type. So I dreamed up the SCHMETZ Needle Overview File.

Schmetz Needle Overview File

This simple solution is easy to use and that I like! I got a paper file clip folder in a nice blue shade, 4 pieces clear report covers and 4 sheets of slightly heavier white paper. Next I rummaged around in my thread stocks for a blue colored spool of thread and I inserted a leather needle in the machine. Because you can sew paper and plastic with a leather needle…
Schmetz needle overview file, easily find the right sewing machine needle

Supplies:

    • 1 paper file clip folder
    • 4 clear report covers
    • 4 sheets of A4 paper, slightly heavier then printing paper
    • spool of thread
    • leather sewing machine needle
    • fray check
    • hobby knife
    • ruler
    • pencil
Fray check to fixate textile and threads
On every sheet of paper I drew three lines horizontally and three lines vertically. An A4 sheet is 29,7 cm high and 21 cm wide. I rounded of the height of 29,7 cm to 30 cm and divided it by 4, the same for the 21 cm. After drawing the lines, place the paper inside the clear report covers. Stitch over the lines with a long stitch. To prevent the stitches fraying, tie them of and snip of the ends. Next I fixated the end using Fray check Now to most difficult part, cutting slits in the clear report covers. Lay the ruler just below the horizontal stitch line. Next you cut through the clear cover but NOT the paper or the vertical stitches. The amount of pressure you should use depends on the thickness of the clear cover and sharpness of the knife. Only the cover should get an opening.
Now you can place the finished clear covers in the paper file clip folder. You can sort your needles however you want. I have sorted them on type and size, but you can sort them alphabetically or any other way you like. Are you even better than me at organizing, than you could name the individual pockets before you place the paper in the clear cover…
Make the Schmetz Needle Overview File in these steps
Now all needle packages are nicely organized and it’s easy to recognize and use your sewing machine needles! More information? Our socials